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Breitling Chronomat B01 42

Throughout the 1930s and early 1940s, Breitling became synonymous with quality wrist-worn chronographs at attractive prices, especially with the release of the first chronograph with dual pushers for start/stop and reset in 1934 stopwatch. In 1942, the Chronomat — a combination of chronograph and mathematics — put Breitling on the horological map of the period. What makes it unique is the circular slide rule created in the two parts of the dial edge and the scale ring. According to a patented design filed in 1940, the two logarithmic scales are opposite each other. One is fixed to the dial and the other rotates at the whim of the user. It allows tachometer, pulsometer and rangefinder calculations. Also (pardon the pun) simple math can be performed. This enables the wearer to solve multiplication, division, interest rates, percentages, productivity and exchange rates. Powered by a Venus 175 movement with an atypical 45-minute chronograph, the Chronomat quickly became very popular.

Over the next few years, the Chronomat underwent various updates, including a moon phase version, which remained Breitling's flagship model until the release of the Navitimer in 1952 at the request of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). This new model, named for its navigation and timer properties, is based on the Chronomat, but now includes an inverted outer scale so that the two log scales run parallel in a clockwise direction.

However, I digress because we're talking about the Chronomat here, which was largely unchanged in the 1960s, with only minor tweaks for the contemporary era.

By the 1970s and the time when the mechanical watch industry was consuming quartz movements, the Chronomat had disappeared from the catalogue. Of course, we shouldn't confuse the Chronomat with the similarly nicknamed Chronomatic. This extremely important timepiece was designed in a joint venture with Heuer, Hamilton-Bruen and Dubois-Depraz. As the first automatic chronograph movement (hence Chronomatic - a fusion of chronograph and automatic movement), it heralded a new era in watchmaking.

The next issue is Ernest Schneider's relaunch of the Chronomat on the brand's centennial in 1984. As mentioned, the introduction of cheaper and more accurate quartz movements from Seiko wreaked havoc in the Swiss luxury watch industry, with many brands having to file for bankruptcy. Despite launching its own quartz models, Breitling was unable to avoid this dire situation, with sales plummeting from the mid-1970s onwards. In 1977, it even produced a battery-powered aviation timepiece with an LCD display, which would have seemed heretical a decade earlier.

In 1978, Willy Breitling was forced to close his 96-year-old family business as the Swiss economic system followed, and the overvalued Swiss franc and suppliers disappeared. Despite the closure of the Montbrillant factory and the dismissal of all employees, Willie Breitling is determined to keep the Breitling name in the Swiss watch industry as it deserves. Georges Caspari, now Breitling's redundant advertising executive, recommended an old Swiss Army friend to Willie Breitling. Ernest Schneider is an electronic engineer who has specialized in transmissions in the Swiss Army. Since 1957, he has been a director of Sicura Watch, a growing business with more than 300 employees. This is due to innovations in solar cells and quartz watches. Schneider is also an aviation enthusiast with a pilot's license and his own aircraft. He is a fan of Breitling pilot watches and owns several. When Caspari approached him, he didn't hesitate. 6 April 1979 Ernest Schneider acquires the Breitling Watch Company and all its rights. Willie Breitling tragically passed away after 39 days, but his surname will live on. In 25 years, it has grown into one of the top five luxury watch brands in the world.

Ernest Schneider brought his extensive knowledge of quartz watches to Breitling, and the company quickly gained momentum. However, Schneider is well aware of Breitling's brilliant career based on mechanical chronographs. Just as Schneider was considering paying homage to Breitling's legacy, in 1983 he learned that Frecce Tricolori of the Italian Army, the world's most prestigious aerobatic team, was sending out an invitation to tender for its official timepiece. Also, the timing is perfect because the watch the Italians need needs to be a mechanical chronograph. Unlike other watch brands that contacted the Italian show team, Schneider did not want to revamp an existing model, but was eager to create one from scratch. This is a great opportunity to design something new built in advertising and integrity from the start. In 1983, the Brecce Tricolori watch was launched.

The case, buttons, crown and bracelet are all new. However, the bezel markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock are the most modern elements. These rider tags are known to have been designed by Schneider to protect the crystal from shock and ensure optimal handling when wearing pilot gloves.

Schneider realized immediately that he had built a potential flagship model for Breitling. In 1984, the brand's centennial, introduced this all-new model.

It was a brave decision, as the current trend is still for ultra-thin, high-precision, inexpensive quartz watches. However, the new Chronomat, named in honor of the 1942 original, was a success and has been the brand's main icon ever since, alongside its brother Navitimer. More importantly, it allows Schneider to pay tribute to Breitling's history of innovation and success in the field of mechanical chronographs.

In 2009, Breitling's superb in-house chronograph movement 01 was installed in the new Chronomat, and the next decisive revision came. This polarizing and radical new design was initially derided by the media and Breitling fans, mainly because the bezel numbers didn't seem to match the rest of the watch. However, it has become a popular backbone of the Breitling catalog thanks to its impeccable detailing and finishing.

I realize I've glossed over the very successful Chronomat Evo, but as the title suggests, this is really just an evolution of the 1984 model.

At first glance, the new 2020 Chronomat B01 42 appears to be a complete redesign of the current catalog Chronomat 44, but it is more in the style of the 1984 model, which itself is a reintroduction of the original 1942 Chronomat. To me, this is the most successful and compassionate interpretation of what Ernest Schneider originally envisioned 36 years ago.

The case, bezel, dial, markers, buttons and crown have all been redesigned. But what catches the eye first is the outrageous reinterpretation of the classic "Rouleaux" bracelet.

The buttons and crown are more reminiscent of the "Schneider" 1984 Chronomat than anything else Breitling has produced since then. They are mounted on a billet section on the side of the case, rising from the case to become the sculpted crown protector. I'm certainly glad they made the unscrewing push ring redundant. It makes quick access to the chronograph impossible unless you keep them open and then it looks awkward. The Half Onion Crown continues to serve its design purpose by providing excellent grip without any discomfort to the user. It also looks refined, with a discrete flying B logo on the outer surface.

The dial is dynamic and unassuming. The recessed sub-dials have a circular pattern that ripples from the center and stops a third of the way from the periphery. These little details add character and topography to the dial. The sunburst colors used are kaleidoscopes because they capture different light.

The flaps are unidirectional and move with enough resistance to allow easy use without compromising the safety of the intended positioning. Despite the integrated redesign from the Chronomat 44, the rider tab still allows for optimal grip. It's also a more classic design. I don't know why there is only one minute integer mark on the top half of the bezel. I guess this is for symmetry, as it has no practical use I can think of. Only the first 15 minutes of the diver's bezel need to identify each minute. There are some subtle design nuances using polished chamfered edges that really raise the bar for this bezel.

The rest of the 200-meter water-resistant case has been carefully polished. I especially like the 45° top edge, which covers the entire length of the side of the case.

A 2mm reduction in the diameter of the Chronomat 44 doesn't sound like much, but it improves comfort through size and weight, and makes the Chronomat 01 42 less fatigued and therefore more pleasant to wear in the long run.

Through the sapphire case back, you can witness the brilliance and technical skills of the self-made 01 movement. In my opinion, this peeping porthole is a prerequisite for any Chronomat redesign, as the Chronometer rated 47 jewels 01 calibre is one of the most beautiful and thoughtful chronograph movements of the new millennium. Breitling created this movement from scratch, allowing them to incorporate very useful but surprisingly rare features, such as a safe date change, a patent that allows for accidental pressing of the reset button while the chronograph is running without being catastrophic Damaged, a single barrel provides a power reserve of 70 hours, and the modular construction gives you easy access to important components for repairs and adjustments without interfering with the chronograph architecture.

Interestingly, unlike all other Chronomat that came before, there was no option to buy the new model on the strap (other than solid 18-karat red gold). The lug width remains the standard 22mm, so you can retrospectively buy a leather, rubber or alligator strap and install it. But why do you want to? The bracelets on the new collection are definitely a show. It takes a stunning original design and redefines it for today's market with extraordinary empathy. Which begs the question: Why did Breitling take half a century to do this?

The new Chronomat B01 42 will be available in full steel, stainless steel and 18ct red gold – with stainless steel bezel and stainless steel bracelet – stainless steel and 18ct red gold – with full gold bezel and bimetallic bracelet – and full 18ct red gold bracelet and folding clasp unit.